Making A Gaming Table
Usually don't post that much to forums, and rarely about myself but I had to brag as I just finished building my family a game table for all of our board gaming. - Erkunde Anne Selmers Pinnwand „RPG Gaming Table“ auf Pinterest. If you're looking to make your own gaming table for RPG or board games. Apr 20, - Thinking about building your own gaming table? Here's a guide to some of the best projects. - Thinking about building your own gaming table? But here in the 21st, a company called Geek Chic is making modern-day gaming tables. Boardgame Table Topper - Imgur Spieltisch, Tischdecken, Brettspiele. Artikel von imgur. A pair of bespoke gaming tables I designed for a gentleman in
- Erkunde Anne Selmers Pinnwand „RPG Gaming Table“ auf Pinterest. If you're looking to make your own gaming table for RPG or board games. - Thinking about building your own gaming table? But here in the 21st, a company called Geek Chic is making modern-day gaming tables. Aug 15, - Build a dream gaming table that can even include an embedded digital Terrarium making is a rewarding hobby that combines art and nature.
One of the first things that you will need to decide on is the type of gaming table you want. The easiest way to do this is to consider what type of games you typically play.
For example, if you are playing Call of Cthulhu you will not need the same kind of table that you use for Magic: The Gathering.
It is all about what you are wanting to play the most. Now that you have the overall theme and game in mind, you can begin planning the overall dimensions.
Now that you have the surface area determined, you can figure out the height. A standard table is roughly 29 inches tall, so you will want to make your table a bit taller so you can both sit at the table and stand over it comfortably.
This base will allow you to create a hollow area that you can use to store your gaming materials i.
If you are going to create a storage area within the table that you can use to put your materials away, you will then want to decide what type of table top you want.
Some tables have a hinged top which allows you to easily lift the top up and retrieve the materials within. Others you can lift up, completely exposing the interior of the table.
This is also a viable option since you could make the interior of the table the playing area. When you are done for the night, you can then simply place the top back onto the table, hiding the playing field from sight.
I particularly like this method since you can easily leave the field in the exact same position that you want it for the next gaming session.
I went ahead and ordered a sheet of 3mm neoprene with a blue nylon fabric attached to one side akin to a computer mouse pad ; I got a sheet of 50"x80" from Foam Order because they only sell full sheets or half sheets, and the half sheet was too small.
This has a firm, but slightly giving playing surface that made it easier to pick up cards. I think that we will continue to use this, as it also deadens the sound of rolling dice.
Once the neoprene mat was installed, we loaded our board games on the built-in shelves of the base. Now, all of our games are in one centralized location, and if a game happens to run long past someone's bedtime , we can leave it out to continue another night.
All in all, this project lasted about 9 weeks from start to finish. But, I didn't work on it anywhere near that total time.
I probably got solid days work done on it over a couple of weekends, the rest was a couple of hours here and there. Of course, 2 weeks of this time was just the staining and urethaning, as I waited a day between each coat to let it dry.
Since I abandoned my original design for cup holders, I had to come up with something else. However, I really wanted to get the table done before the weather got too cold to stain and seal in the garage.
So the cup holder solution is now an afterthought. I am considering making cup holders that hook over the armrests that can be used only when needed.
This gives the flexibility of putting them anywhere along the armrest, so it doesn't matter where someone ends up sitting.
Also, this keeps them out of the way of the player's knees! I have a mock-up photo at the end of this step of what I am thinking. I think I will try to glue a thin layer of cork on the inside edges of the "hook" so that the armrests don't get scratched.
Thanks for taking the time to read my instructable. I hope it was thorough enough for you to follow if you decide to try your own hand at making one.
Thanks for this fantastic set of instructions! I am pretty much committed to making this table. This will be my first real woodworking project, other than building a toolbox.
I really appreciate the clarity and absence of expensive tools that I don't have. I don't have the space for 4' x 6' so I am instead going to do 3' x 4'.
The base will likely be 18" x 30" same height and I won't have room for the criss-cross to still store a 12" game box.
Do you think this will compromise the strength of the base at all? Please let me know if you have any thoughts on shrinking the size like this.
Thanks in advance. I am in the midst of converting all the measurements to my chosen table size and determining the new wood requirement.
I followed your instructions and it went together really easily. I made a different base Reply 12 months ago.
Nice job. Your table looks great! Glad that my directions were clear enough for you. Question 1 year ago. Can you explain how you built the riser wall?
Reply 1 year ago. Everything is laid out in the Step 2 picture , with text following in " The Riser Walls " section of Step 3. If you would still like more details after reading both sets of text, please let me know specific questions that you have, and I will do my best to address those.
The table top support is 5'9" x 3'9". I put the 2 long 2x4's on the outside, 3'9" apart at their outside. For the shorter 2x4's, they were supposed to be 1.
Since the span ended up being just 5'9", I adjusted a tiny bit. Exact measurements are not really that important, as they just provide support across the bottom of the plywood.
I never ended up putting cup holders on, so I have no answer for that one :. Question 2 years ago. Answer 2 years ago. I didn't want the stain to be too dark, so I only did 2 coats of that.
I don't remember how many clear polyurethane coats I finished with. It has been quite a while since I stained this, but I think the color was "Antique Walnut", with a 'satin' finish.
The clear polyurethane had a 'semi-gloss' finish. Reply 3 years ago. For some reason, it took us a few games of King of Tokyo to get into it, but now we really enjoy it.
Smash Up card game is another one that is becoming a favorite. Thank you. It's a family favorite, though lately we've been leaning towards Ticket to Ride - Europe.
By RoguePirin Follow. More by the author:. The table top "sandwich" To assemble the table top, I had 4 layers: The table frame The playing surface The riser walls The armrests The table frame The frame of the table is made out of 2x4's.
The playing surface The playing surface was the easiest part, as it is just a sheet of plywood to play on.
The armrests At this stage, the last layer to add is the armrest. The Base I decided that I would make the base of the table a pedestal-style shelving unit.
The Table Frame The frame for the table top was made out of 2x4's. The size of the table top was figured as follows: Overall table size is 4' x 6'.
So the table top frame is now 3' The outside riser wall will abut against the frame to hide the fact that it is constructed of 2x4's.
So, the table top frame needs to be reduced by a further 1. This gives a final table top frame size of 3' 9" x 5' 9".
You will note on the hand drawing, I originally planned to have sliding drawers with cup holders in them. I abandoned that idea once I realized how wide the drawer would be in the middle of the 6' table span.
Guests would definitely hit their knees on that. The Riser Wall This next part will probably need the photo to go with it, but here is my best explanation.
I measured the length of one of the long sides. Let's say it came to 5' 8. I added 1. Then I took a round-over bit on my router and rounded both ends.
I repeated this process on the other long side. For the 3'9" sides of the table, you would think that the outside riser piece would be 3'9" long.
Then I cut that to length so that it fit tightly between them for a nice inset butt joint. I cut the strip of poplar and mounted that to the outside rise piece and then attached it to the table with wood and screws.
Finally, I repeated step 3 for the other side of the 3'9" side of the table. The Armrests The armrests were designed to be the full extents of our measurements.
Finishing Touches I originally planned to have slide out cup holders under the table. Base Construction The base was determined to be 2'x4'x25" high.
Since I cut the slots with my circular saw, and I didn't go all the way to the end, the slots had a slight ramp up at the edges that followed the contour of the saw blade.
Finishing Touches The last thing I did was add trim to the exposed edges of the plywood. Project Time Commitment All in all, this project lasted about 9 weeks from start to finish.
Afterthought Since I abandoned my original design for cup holders, I had to come up with something else.
Thanks Thanks for taking the time to read my instructable. Participated in the Epilog Contest 8 View Contest. Did you make this project?
Share it with us! I Made It! Vertical Orchid Planter by amandaghassaei in Woodworking. Reply Upvote. RyanS 12 months ago on Step 5. RoguePirin RyanS Reply 12 months ago.
Garmar Question 1 year ago. Answer Upvote. RoguePirin Garmar Reply 1 year ago. Garmar RoguePirin Reply 1 year ago. Heptron Question 2 years ago.
RoguePirin Heptron Answer 2 years ago. PaleoDan 3 years ago. RoguePirin PaleoDan Reply 3 years ago.